While in Devon, I pestered my parents to drive us somewhere new – funny, as a kid it was always me doing the grumbling about car rides – and I picked Clovelly somewhat randomly from a guidebook. It’s about an hour’s drive from Lee on Devon’s north-west coast, past Appledore and Westward Ho! (Doesn’t this part of the world have the best place names?) My mum knew it vaguely as being where the famous Hovis advert was filmed but otherwise we were surprised to turn up and find that it’s an entirely private village, with a £6.50 fee payable to enter. Nearly every building in the village is listed so the fee mostly goes towards maintenance using traditional craftsmanship, upkeeping the tourist facilities and entry to a couple of the small museums.
Stepping inside past the customary gift shop, we were greeted with a stunning view over the rooftops to the sea and harbour below, and a cobbled walkway winding down through the village. There are no cars in most of the village (just for guests of the single hotel) and most deliveries are made up and down the cobbles by sledge.